Tag: Garagistic
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330
13Jun

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GARAGISTIC X FEAL SUSPENSION COILOVERS COLLABORATION

Introducing the new line of Garagistic x Feal coilovers! We teamed up with Feal Suspension to bring you a high-quality suspension upgrade for all your favorite BMW chassis. Feal suspension designs each shock with expertise from their success in many top-level international motorsports and through their years of experience tuning various shock brands. Combine Feal’s suspension expertise with Garagistic’s BMW chassis experience and the result is a finely tuned suspension package that will give you a competitive advantage. Each set of Garagistic X Feal coilovers is carefully tuned to our spec to handle any track condition and style of driving. 

WHO IS BEHIND FEAL SUSPENSION?

To those of you who have never heard of FEAL, you’ve been missing out! FEAL suspension was founded by Odi Bakchis from Formula Drift, and is a household name for those who want to push their car’s handling to the limits.

Feal Suspension has been in the business of servicing and tuning dampers since 2007.  Their focus has been maintaining and improving damper performance with their product R&D, not just sales of coilover kits.

As a company with so much support from the professional community, FEAL is best positioned to create coilovers that improves performance on the track. When you see Odi throw his  900 HP LS swapped S15 around the corner at Irwindale, you better believe those FEAL coilovers have been thoroughly designed and tested for maximum performance. If there is one company that put their money where their mouth is, it would be FEAL. 

 Odi pushing his old pro S14 and his new LS swapped S15 at Formula Drift Long Beach. Photo credit: Todd Veney of Holley 

WHY DID WE TEAM UP WITH FEAL SUSPENSION?

When you purchase Garagistic X FEAL coilovers, you will receive dampers built with years of tuning experience and testing. With tuning methods not only from the conventional shock dyno analysis, but also testing using professional drivers and collecting valuable feedback from track usage.

We teamed up with FEAL for this exact reason. We know all the Garagistic supporters are always looking for the most effective way to beef up their suspension for the track. There’s no other partner out there that can rival their years of experience in designing, tuning, and testing such an integral part of any build.

When these coilovers have been through all kinds of motorsport testing ranging from autox, road race, rally, and professional drifting applications for many years, you end up with a set of coilovers that was designed to be pushed to the limits. (Not just for looks)

PRODUCT OVERVIEW

The Garagistic X FEAL coilovers will have one of the most modular setup you can find in the market. We have worked with pro drivers around the world to fine tune the valving, spring rates, shock stroke and body lengths to develop the best coilover kit for your E30/E36/E46 and all the chassis we offer.

Some of the cool features from some of our kits include an “upside down” rear shock for the E36 kit. This custom configuration reduces the unsprung weight that the rear trailing arm has to cycle. If you choose the “true coilover” option, the upside down shock places the spring on the bottom away from the chassis allowing lots of movement without any interference. Don’t settle for a cookie-cutter kit for your builds!

The Garagistic X FEAL coilovers will have BMW applications only as of now. The applications include the following chassis:

  • E30, E36, E34, E46, E39, E85, E90/E92, E81/E82, E87/E88
  • F30, F22/F23, F87

We will continue to work with FEAL to release new variants that cater to new BMW models/non BMW models, so stay tuned for future releases!

Choose between street, road race, and drift spec coilovers for a suspension that is optimized for the type of driving you enjoy the most. From a sporty street build all the way to a fully built drift machine like the Garagistic FD car, the new Garagistic X Feal coilovers are sure to deliver.

Spring choices are also up for customizations. For different chassis, we have different spring rates that are best tailored different applications. We also have custom spring rates available for specific models.

One thing that we love at Garagistic is the modularity and the ability to customize these coilovers based on your desired specs. From different coilover levels that determines damping adjustability, rebound and compression, to different spring choices, there’s always something ready for your build.  

AVAILABLE COILOVER LEVELS

441 – Damping adjustability that adjusts Rebound and Compression in one knob. Very easy to tune vehicle firmness, dive, and roll. Feal springs standard.

441+ – Damping adjustability that adjusts Rebound and Compression in one knob. Very easy to tune vehicle firmness, dive, and roll. Swift springs standard.

442 – Separate damping adjustability for Rebound and Compression. Rebound adjustability does not change compression force so that you can fine tune the roll and rate of weight transfer. The huge range of compression adjustability is independent of rebound force. The compression adjustability will allow you to adjust for more or less traction and more or less suspension movement on the compression stroke.

443 – All of the above plus separate damping adjustability for High Speed Compression, Low Speed Compression, and Rebound. Low speed compression damping adjustability allows you to fine tune chassis movement on the compression stroke over round bumps and/or throttle and braking inputs. High speed compression adjustability allows you to fine tune bottoming resistance and wheel movement on the compression stroke over rumble strips and square edge bumps. 

Please note – We highly recommend reinforcing rear shock mounts for any true rear coilover option.

IMPORTANT: Make sure to follow Feal’s initial coilover setup guide! Setup Guide can be found here: Coilover Setup/Adjustment Guide 

FOR THOSE WHO WANT TO ORDER

We are currently offering the following models to sign-up for our upcoming pre-order! Please make sure to use the signup form in the following links below to let us know which models you are interested in – it would help us prepare the coilovers in the most efficient way possible to minimize the lead time. The more a specific application is signed up, the earlier that specific model will be available, so please remember to sign up in the link below.

Applicable Chassis

Order Disclaimer:

  • These coilovers are custom built to spec. Please expect 4-5 Weeks of lead time. We estimate shipping date will be end of July.
  • All pre-orders are custom built to spec, so please verify models/specs before ordering. Our returns policy may change specifically for these kits to match FEAL’s policy. Thank you for your understanding


About Garagistic 

We are BMW, Datsun, Mercedes, and just, in general, car enthusiasts. Growing up, everyone on the Garagistic team has worked on their own project cars and tracked, drifted, or otherwise engaged in hoon activity. We took our love for everything Motorsport and started Garagistic.

We make everything here in the USA. From our multiple CNCs working around the clock to our in-house welder, we take pride in what we do and what we can deliver. We now develop the best BMW E30, E36, E46, E28, E21, E39, 190e performance parts and much more.

Our BMW parts range from aluminum, delrin, and poly subframe bushings to E30 X-braces and strut bars. We pride ourselves on having the most affordable BMW performance parts with the best quality on the market. 

Stay updated with us on Instagram, YouTube & our website!

About Feal Suspension

Feal Suspension has been in the business of servicing and tuning dampers since 2007. Our focus has been maintaining and improving damper performance, not just sales of coilover kits.

When you purchase Feal brand coilovers, you will receive dampers built with years of tuning experience and testing. Our tuning methods span not only shock dyno analysis, but also testing using professional drivers and collecting valuable feedback.

We have tested Feal product on autox, road race, rally, and professional drifting applications for many years. We are active in professional motorsports and constantly put our suspension to the test.

Stay updated with FEAL Suspension on Instagram & website!

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251
30May

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This guide should only be used to help you as a suggested way to fix your equipment. They are not intended to be the only way to do. Its your responsibility if any damage occurs. If you are not sure of any part of these instructions, feel free to send us an email, we would be happy to help.

There are many small pieces involved with this. So proceed with caution, use common sense and proper safety measures.

Please be aware that we are not responsible for any damages that happen. By using this guide you understand that we have made this only to make installation easier for you. However, do to the age of these things, every gauge cluster has been through a different life.

TOOLS NEEDED:

– Assortment of philips screw drivers

– needle nose pliers

– flat screw driver

– a little patience

TIME NEEDED:

– About 45 mins. This is something that takes patience. You’re dealing with lots of tiny pieces.

STEP 1

Remove the 9 Philips screws in the back of your gauge. When placed down, be careful not to brake the tabs!

STEP 2

When removing rear panel, take note of the two lower tabs and be sure to pull straight up or damage to connectors inside may happen.

STEP 3

Remove the 4 Philips screws that hold the odometer in place. Before you try to take out the cluster, do not forget the connector at the bottom. There are tabs that hold it in place. Once this is out you can pull straight out because there are connectors holding. DO NOT BEND! We found its best if you hold the cluster as it was placed in the car that way it doesn’t fall out.

STEP 4

When odometer is out, you will see the gears on the side. There should be three. See the damage.

STEP 5

There are two screws holding a clear cover over the gears. Remove them.

STEP 6

The gears can then be replaced in the order they are taken out. They fit in an interlocking stacking setup. Notice that the gears are very soft and will fall apart as you try to remove them. NOTE: There is a brass bushing on the smaller 12 tooth gear. Its on the shaft and needs to be removed to install the new gear. You do not need this bushing with the new gear. DO NOT TRY TO PULL THE BUSHING OFF WITH ANY TOOLS AS THIS WILL DAMAGE THE MOTOR. Best way is to use a pair of pliers and lightly squeeze the bushing from one side, then the other. Then it ill slip right out. Do not use too much force!

Dont forget to install out spacer to keep the gears spaced correctly. DO NOT PUSH IT ALL THE WAY DOWN AGAINST THE GEAR. THIS WILL CAUSE THE GEARS TO BE PINCHED AND NOT BE ABLE TO MOVE!

STEP 7

Put together in reverse order. Be sure you have gotten all the old pieces of the gears out so you have no future problems. Before closing everything up be sure to run the gears by hand to make sure everything is right and working correctly.

ENJOY! No more guessing when the next oil change is!

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222
29May

on

If you have bought a Garagistic Oval shifter bushing, round shifter bushing, or any shifter bushing kit, you may have noticed that one bushing fits perfect and the other side might appear “loose”. 

Here is the reason for it and why it will not affect the performance of your new shifter bushing installation:

The original Aluminum cast BMW Shifter carrier (the part this bushing gets pressed into) is a tapered hole. This is because in the making of a cast part (like your OEM shifter carrier), they need to be able to form a hole and have it release easily in mass production (hence the taper). Aluminum die casting with holes cannot be cast without that taper. When you look at your carrier housing, you will notice a split lines where the two halves meet. You will also notice that the part where your shifter bushings get pressed into is actually 2 different sizes.

Having said that we make our bushing to be universal to avoid assembly errors. (If the bushing was customized based on the taper and was accidentally interchanged, it’s easy to permanently damage one bushing )

We maintain a nominal dimension so it can be interchanged. Though it seems one time tight fit on one end and easy fit on the other end, this will not only make it easy on the assembly but will not affect the performance of the shifter itself.

One solution would be to make 2 different bushings (one for each side). This will increase cost for customers on a part that is meant to be an affordable modification. It can also make it possible to install incorrectly. This is not a feasible solution.

The other solution (what other competitors do), is to make bushing bigger to make it fit both sides tight. In that process, one bushing still fits better than the other. The only difference is that the one that was “smaller” is not a super tight fit and will push on the pinhole making it impossible to push bitch clip though. This is not a good solution but has been an industry standard for these parts. It means you will not find out why the “bitch clip” got its name until you are in the middle of installation under your car. Turning your simple upgrade into a nightmare job. 

This will not affect performance because the lip on the bushing stops all side to side play when installing on the transmission (where the bitch clip goes through). Once installed, it is tight so side to side play is eliminated. The center hole where the clip goes through does the rest of the work. It’s very accurate for the bitch clip that goes through it. So that eliminates forward and back play. Between both of those concepts, all play is eliminated so one bushing being tighter then the other makes no difference!

TOO LONG DIDN’T READ CLIFF NOTES:

  1. OEM shifter carriers are originally Aluminum die casting and the hole cannot be cast without that taper in the shifter hole area (where the bushing goes in).

  2. We cannot make 2 different size bushings for this. Our shifter bushings are be universal to avoid assembly errors and keep costs FOR YOU low. (If the bushing was customized based on the taper and was accidentally interchanged, its easy to permanently damage one bushing )

  3. Once installed: 1 tight bushing and 1 “loose” bushings will still eliminate front and side to side play as originally promised. Meaning the part will work as intended and you will be very pleased with your shifter play eliminated!

  4. Competitors make both bushings oversized making them a press fit which will shrink the middle hole making it impossible to install pin after that without drill bushing. Its how the clip got its famous name of “bitch clip”.